Stock Turbo/Injector Tunes - $500
Bigger Turbo or Bigger Injector Tunes - $600
Speed Density Tuning - $700
Flex Fuel Tuning - $750
I no longer do opensource tuning. YimiSport can opensource tune.
*** THIS IS BASICALLY A STOCK ECU/ STOCK LOCATION TURBO FAQ, VARIOUS EM'S & ROTATED TURBOS NOT DISCUSSED **
AccessPort Tuning: What you need
1) Laptop - U need a laptop to be able to utilize ATR and the AEM wideband logging. **
2) Access Tuner Race - you need to email cobb and get the download link for ATR. ATR will give you access to more logging parameters. ATR FORM (click me)
3) Wideband - if you have anything but stock injectors or stock intake, you need a wideband. but even with stock components i urge everyone to get a wideband....fuel is the lifeblood of your motor and you need to monitor it. Subarus are notorious for developing leaks and the wideband can save your motor. AEM Uegos (part #30-4100) are ~$165 on ebay and $165 is peanuts to protect your $25k-$40k investment. ** In my experience installing the 02 sensor at the rear of the downpipe will help the sensor last longer, but dont just remove the stock rear 02 and put the wideband in, you need to weld on a second bung and keep both installed.
4) Wideband (AEM) Logging Cable - you need to purchase the AEM Logging cable from Busted finger or make your own with parts from radioshack. ** Busted Finger (click me)
Busted Finger Cable Drivers (click me)
** If you have stock injectors & stock intake (or stock size intake) you dont need the wideband, wb logging cable or laptop. **
Opensource Tuning: What you need
1) Tactrix Openport 2.0 Cable - TACTRIX CABLE (click me)
2) Laptop - U need a laptop to be able to utilize romraider and ecuflash.
3) Romraider and Ecuflash - go here for downloads and instruction
New Learning View RC3 (CLICK ME)
New Romraider w/ Fast Polling (CLICK ME)
Old Romraider n Learning View Links...just use this for install FAQ's
RomRaider/Ecuflash getting started FAQ (click me)
4) Wideband - if you have anything but stock injectors or stock intake, you need a wideband. but even with stock components i urge everyone to get a wideband....fuel is the lifeblood of your motor and you need to monitor it. Subarus are notorious for developing leaks and the wideband can save your motor. AEM Uegos are ~$165 on ebay and $165 is peanuts to protect your $25k-$40k investment. ***
5) Wideband (AEM) Logging Cable - you need to purchase the AEM Logging cable from Busted finger or make your own with parts from radioshack. *** Busted Finger (click me)
Busted Finger Cable Drivers (click me)
*** If you have stock injectors & stock intake (or stock size intake) you dont need the wideband or wideband logging cable. ***
**** VISTA USERS: when installing Ecuflash & Romraider on your computer use the RUN AS ADMIN option. Right click on icon, select run as admin ****
MAF Tab Scaling Instructions PDF (click me)
Opensource vs Access Port
The AP is "easy" in the sense that it arrives at your door and you can go out and flash maps.
With opensource you need to buy the cable, download all the programs, figure out how to use ecuflash, figure out how to use romraider, etc.
The AP wins in the category of ease of install and initial use. Some people have lots of issues with Opensource...getting ecuflash and romraider installed can be a PITA on some computers...driver problems, java problems, getting the definitions in the correct folder....
The AP is more for people who are never going to want to tune or monitor their own vehicle....although you can log with the AP and you can get access tuner race and tune your own vehicle.
Opensource is more for people who want to tinker with their tune and see what various parameters do.
Better is a matter of perspective too. For the new subaru owner an AP is definately easier...which in turn could make it better. AP comes with a database of tunes for 91, 93, stage1, stage2 etc......and you can switch maps without a laptop....and it has launch control and flat foot shifting. Cobb has an actual office and customer service support lines.
OS doesnt come with any maps...but you can find them online. OS doesnt come with LC or FFS, but you can buy it from tinywrex. OS doesnt have any customer service...thus people post their problems on nasioc.
Road Tuning/E-Tuning vs Dyno Tuning
- loads and environment are exactly what the car is going to see everyday
- hood is down, heatsoak is exactly how it will be daily, underhood aerodynamics are accounted for
- you get in the habit of monitoring your own vehicle
- you get an understanding of the tuning process and can see whats being changed
- you get a better understanding of when it is/isnt a good idea to beat on your car
- more involved process. you are the one driving the car. you have control of when to get out of a pull if you think something is wrong.
- time. the process can take 1-2 weeks or way longer....some people send me 10 logs a day....some send 1 log a month.....some people pay then take 3-4 weeks to get me there AP serial #. 95% of the time i am waiting on logs from customers...the 5% where they have to wait is because i am either driving or seeing family on a holiday.
- speeding. traffic tickets are a possibility.
- traffic, accidents, old ladies, animals, weather can all come into play on the road
- troubleshooting mechanical issues via the internetz sux teh ballz
Dyno Tuning Pros
- You're at a shop with mechanics who can troubleshoot real time
- Greater level of detail and consistency of power measurement
- Dont have to worry about traffic tickets, traffic, weather, etc
- you get a pretty dyno chart
Dyno Tuning Cons
- load/environment replication. personally i've never seen a car driving down the street with its hood popped and a fan mounted in front of it.
- since the tuning is done with the hood open underhood aerodynamics arent taken into account at all. intake air temperatures are not close to being on the road. coolant temps can also get really high on the dyno.
- Dom @ MPS on road tuning after dyno tuning. "(Detuning on the road) is because you tuned the car with high IAT (on the dyno) and now you need to compensate for the cooler IATs you got in the real world. This is the same misconception most other tuners/shops have in this country. They don't realize that you get more airflow over the car, through the engine bay and radiator at 20mph than you get on the shop floor with 3 fans in front of it. You have to look at the air over the car as a difference in pressure. The under-tray creates a low pressure region under the car and draws air through the intercooler and radiator. Floor fans alone can't provide enough pressure to do this."
Blouch Turbos (click me)
Blouch Bearing Turb Chp Whp Price $$/hp
td05h-16g journal 7cm 350 280 695 2.48
dom 0.5-R ball 8,10 360 288 1395 4.84
td05h-16g XT journal 8,10 410 328 950 2.9
td05h-18g XT journal 7,8,10 430 344 1250 3.63
td05h-20g XT-R ball 8,10 440 352 1499 4.26
td05h-20g XT journal 7,8,10 470 376 1350 3.59
dom 1.5 XT-R ball 8,10 480 384 1595 4.15
dom 1.0 XT journal 7,8,10 490 392 1475 3.76
dom 2.5 XT-R ball 8,10 490 392 1695 4.32
dom 2.0 XT journal 7,8,10 550 440 1595 3.63
dom 3.0 XT-R ball 8,10 550 440 1795 4.08
dom 4.0 XT-R ball 8,10 600 480 1950 4.06
dom 5.0 XT-R ball 10 650 520 1995 3.84
18gxt vs xtr
Dom at MP
"The 18G-XTR spools slower than the 18G-XT. I spoke with Blouch they said they shouldn't even have called the turbo an 18G. They should have called it a DOM 0.5 or something. It has the larger 56.5mm turbine wheel of the GT30 and spools about 400rpm later than the normal 18G-XT."
FP Turbos (click me)
FP Bearing Turb Chp Whp Price $$/whp
HTA 68 journal 7or8cm 470 376 995 2.65
HTA Grn journal 7or8cm 560 448 1399 3.12
RED journal 7or8cm 650 520 1499 2.88
HTA 76 ball 9cm 600 480 1999 4.16
HTA 82 ball 9cm 680 544 1999 3.67
Element Turbos (click me)
turbo Bearing Turb Chp Whp Price $$/whp
GT49 journal 7cm 490 392 1499 3.82
GT52 journal 7cm 520 416 1699 4.08
GT65 journal 8cm 650 520 1899 3.65
ATP (click me)
ATP Bearing Turb Chp Whp Price $$/whp
28RS ball 10cm 420 336 1695 5.04
2871 ball 10cm 440 352 1745 4.96
3071 ball 10cm 470 376 1895 5.04
3076 ball 10cm 520 416 1895 4.56
3582 ball 10cm 650 520 1995 3.84
x3071 ball 10cm 520 416 2195 5.28
x3076 ball 10cm 650 520 2195 4.22
x3582 ball 10cm 720 576 2295 3.98
Subaru Turbo List (click me)
- Electronic Boost Control Solenoid (EBCS)
o Grimmspeed or Perrin
- Manual Boost Controller
o Hallmna Pro RX with Heavy spring and ceramic ball
o Grimmspeed New Model with clicks & lines
- Hybrid Boost Control (EBCS+MBC)
o Combines early spool and solid boost of the MBC with the safety of the EBCS by retaining the ECU’s ability to use overboost fuel cut and cut the wgdc in limp mode.
o HYBRID BOOST CONTROL FAQ AND INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS (CLICK ME)
- Best boost control is hybrid (ebcs+mbc) plus an external wastegate. An external wg makes the most power on chitty gas. The better octane you use and the higher boost you run, the less impact an ext wg has.
(mm) (in) Whp
65 2.56 350 good up to 44lbm turbos (20g)
70 2.76 400 good up to 49lbm turbos (dom2.5xtr, OG Green)
73 2.87 425 good up to 52lbm turbos (gt30)
76 2.99 450 good up to 56lbm turbos (dom3xtr, htagreen)
83 3.27 550 good up to 65lbm turbos (red, black, dom4xtr)
86 3.39 600 good up to 70lbm turbos (speed density is probably the best option at this point)
Fuel System (Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Regulators)
The best setup is topfeed rails, appropriate pump (rewired with bigger gauge wire), fuel pressure regulator, and ID injectors. Five-0 Top Feed Bosch EV-14 injectors are also good
ID1000 (click me)
ID2000 (click me)
DeatschWerks (click me)
Fuel Injector Clinic (click me)
Five-0 Motorsports Top Feed Bosch EV-14 Injectors are also good (click me)
** If you’re sidefeed and want to run 1000cc+ injectors for E-85 you really need to convert to topfeed. Running big sidefeed injectors on pump gas is going to cause drivability problems, misfires and necessitate a high idle to keep the injector pulse width up to keep the injector flow linear.
** I'd highly recommend staying away from PE injectors. They seem to have the most problems.
Fuel Injectors & Pumps for E-85
- vf turbo (32-36 lbm) will max 740cc injectors, use 850cc if you want headroom. walbro255
- old 18g's/20g's (38-44 lbm) will max 850cc injectors, use 1000cc if you want headroom. walbro255
- 20gxt, OG Green, SZ49, SR50, 3071 (47-49 lbm) 1100-1200cc. Dw300/Aero340
- gt3076, gt52, dom3, htagreen (52-56 lbm) 1300-1400cc. Dw300/Aero340
- dom4, red, gt65 (60-65 lbm) 1600cc. walbro400
- gt35/40 (68-76 lbm) 2000cc. Bosch040 (maybe twin 040's) with a surge tank.
** To get more out of smaller injectors you need to remove the stock fuel pump wiring for thicker gauge wire and utilize a FPR.
E85 startup issues
The cranking tables are based on coolant temperature….so you need to localize the coolant temp where the issue is apparent. Basically if you have problems in the morning (cold start) then you need to modify the table below 50* and cold start issues usually need an increase in fuel. Hot start problems 68*+ coolant temp can necessitate either an increase or decrease in fuel.
If you're open source (OS) just open your map...scroll to the cranking tables....go through each one (A through F i believe). Highlight the whole IPW side of the table, then hit *1.1. Do that same thing for the tables A-F...
If it’s better, but still not perfect....repeat.
If it’s worse.....then go back and go the opposite way and multiply by *.90 to remove some fuel.
If you’re using Access Tuner Race (ATR)…the process is the same….except the multiplication shortcut key is “m”.
Some cars have required 60-80% increase below 50* coolant temp.
** E85 ARMY THREAD (CLICK ME)
Fuel Pumps (pump hp / E85 hp)
- Walbro 255 FP (450whp / 400whp)
- DeatschWerks DW300 FP (500whp / 450whp) ( http://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-pumps )
- Aeromotive 340 FP (525whp / 475whp)
- Walbro 400 (550 whp / 500whp)
- Aeromotive A1000 FP ( 575whp / 525whp)
- Bosch040 FP ( 600whp / 550whp)
- Walbro Double Pumper (enough)
Fuel Pressure Regulators
- Aeromotive, Fuel Lab
- Warning – turning up the fuel pressure on any intank pumps will be counterproductive and cause the fuel flow to decrease. If you want to turn up the fuel pressure you need to replace the stock fuel pump wiring with bigger gauge wire to allow the pump to receive more amps.
Blow Off Valves (BOV) & By-Pass Valves (BPV)
By-Pass Valve - does exactly what the name suggests. when you let off the gas and the throttle closes, the BPV opens to BY-PASS the turbo and send the air back to the intake. This has 2 benefits...it prevents compressor surge and at the same time utilizes that pressurized air to keep the turbo spooled when shifting.
Blow Off Valve - Blows off air to atmosphere at throttle lift. Bad for MAF based vehicle since you are releasing air measured by the MAF...this makes the car run rich and blow fireballs when shifting. BOV's only prevent comp surge and the turbo will slow more while shifting compared to a bpv since the air isnt recirculated to keep the comp spinning.
In both cases when you lift of the throttle the pressurized air now takes the path of least resistance.....if you put a 30 psi spring in your bpv and you're running 20psi and you let off the throttle....the spring is going to be too tight to open so the air has to go somewhere....which is through the compressor backwards. Thats compressor surge. You're shoving air through the compressor backwards.
BPV's and BOV's dont do anything at WOT...unless they are leaking. Their main functions (preventing compressor surge and utilizing the pressurized air to keep the turbo spooled while shifting) happen when you let off the gas.
I recommend the forge race bpv with spring kit or a Tial bpv with spring kit. The spring kits add adjustbility that stops them from leaking at idle. The HKS SSQV is the worst valve on the market...stay away at all costs.
Td04 lack of boost – many td04's come with loose wg arms. tighten the wg arm 2 turns check for overboost, repeat.